jueves, 7 de marzo de 2013

Conceito Bastardo, Vinho Regional Duriense, Douro 2010


CONCEITO BASTARDO, VINHO REGIONAL DURIENSE, DOURO 2010

"Conceito Bastardo is an unusual pale cherry colour with aromas of lifted floral notes (rose), hints of white pepper, cloves, liquorice and fruits of the forest. The flavours follow onto the palate with more cherry, cranberry and chocolate flavours but the palate is also very pure and elegant too". farehamwinecellar

"Take the 2007 which Marques reckons was over ripe (though I liked it very much) and the 2008 which she says was under ripe (and which I found lean). In 2009, she reckons she’s got it right. Like the 2007, the 2009 puts me in mind of a Pinot Noir, with its fine red berry and pomegranate flavours. The 2010 is even better. Sappy and juicy with red cherry and that pithy pomegranate quality again. It keeps the sweetness in check and lends a subtly firm texture to the wine without in any way detracting from its levity. Lovely, long and pure." Sarah Ahmed, The Wine Detective.

- Winery: Conceito Vinhos which consists of 3 properties in the Douro Superior totalling some 79 hectares. The two women behind Conceito Vinhos are Carla Costa Ferreira and her daughter, wine-maker, Rita Marques Ferreira. The oldest vines on the estate are 80 years old, there are 2 prized hectares of pre-phylloxera (white) vines up at 600m and 5 hectares of Bastardo at Quinta da Veiga. All the red grape varieties are planted on schistous soils and all the white varieties on granitic sand. The family has been acquiring vineyards since the 1940s but Rita Marques Ferreira only made the first Conceito wines in 2004, and built the Quinta de Veiga winery the following year. All cultivation has been organic since 2006. Although the properties are based in the easternmost Douro Superior, the Douro’s hottest and driest sub-region, Conceito’s base in the Teja Valley, near Vesuvio, has the Douro’s coolest microclimate.

- Wine information: The Conceito Bastardo made with 100% Bastardo grapes (also known as Trousseau Noir or Trousseau) is sourced from a very small, old block of vines at Quinta da Veiga. Normally in the Douro one finds a field blend of a mixture of grape varieties in any one vineyard. However this single varietal block was planted because the Bastardo produces higher sugar levels, prized by Port shippers, which thus attracted a high price back when Conceito would sell all their grapes on. Bastardo was once the most widely planted grape variety in the Douro but it is now a rarity. This wine is aged 10 months in used French Barrels, grapes are transported to the cellar in 25 kg boxes and trodden by foot in granite lagares no de-stemming. This wine is classifed as a VR (Vinho Regional) Duriense, which is a slightly lesser classification than Douro DOC but in no way is reflected in the quality of the wine!

- Price: £19.50

BASTARDO GRAPE

Bastardo (Trousseau Noir, Trousseau) is an old variety of red wine grape. It is grown in small amounts in many parts of Western Europe; most famously it is used in Portuguese port wine. It makes deep cherry red wines with high alcohol and flavours of red berry fruits.

- Vine and Viticulture: It needs hot, dry conditions to do well. The name Trousseau (from Old French trusse, meaning "a bundle") is a reference to the shape of the bunch, it looks 'packed up'.

- Synonyms: Bastardo is also known under the synonyms Bastardinha, Bastardinho, Bastardo Do Castello, Bastardo Dos Frados, Bolonio, Capbreton Rouge, Chauche Noir, Cruchenton Rouge, Donzelino De Castille, Gris De Salces, Gros Cabernet, Merenzao, María Ardoña, Maturana Tinta, Verdejo Negro, Pardinho, Pinot Gris De Rio Negro, Semillon Rouge, Tresseau, Triffault, Trousse, Trousseau, Trousseau Gris, Trousseau Noir, Troussot, Trusiaux, Trusseau, Trussiau.

In the literature, it is often confused with Tressot

- History and pedigree:
. Trousseau Gris is a white mutation, occasionally found in Jura and once common in California under the name 'Gray Riesling'.
. Genouillet is the result of a cross between Gouais Blanc (Heunisch) and Bastardo.
. In 1938 Harold Olmo used Trousseau to pollinate the rupestris hybrid Alicante Ganzin to produce the Royalty variety.
. Bastardo was crossed with the Georgian variety Saperavi to produce the Bastardo Magarachskii variety used in the Crimea.

- Distribution and Wines: A little is grown in Argentina and in several regions of Spain, including the Canary Islands.
. Australia: A small amount is grown in Australia under the name Gros Cabernet.
. France: It is grown in small amounts in eastern and southern France, notably to stiffen blends with the pale Poulsard in the Jura.
. Portugal: It's part of the blend for port wine and also an important variety for red wines in the Dão.
. USA: As in Portugal, it is used to make fortified wines in California. Not much is grown, although some is misidentified as petite sirah.

DURIENSE VR

Duriense is a Portuguese wine region covering the same area as the Douro DOC and the Port wine region. In difference from Douro DOC, Duriense VR is a designation at the lower Vinho Regional (VR) level, which corresponds to table wines with a geographical indication under European Union wine regulations, similar to a French vin de pays region. Thus, it is the simpler or less typical wines of the Douro region that are sold using a Duriense VR label.

Before the creation of a separate Duriense VR, the Douro vineyards were part of the former Trás-os-Montes VR, which is now called Transmontano VR and no longer includes the Douro vineyards.

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