jueves, 11 de abril de 2013

Bodegas Edetària (Via Terra Garnacha) - D.O. Terra Alta


Awarded D O status in 1985, Denomination of Origin Terra Alta is the most southerly of Catalonia's wine regions located in the province of Tarragona. It is a region which is gradually gaining a reputation for producing some of Spain's most interesting wines from the native Garnatxa Tinta, Cariñena and Garnatxa Blanca. 80% of the production of White Garnatxa from Spain occurs in Terra Alta. It also has the highest altitude in this area with mountain peaks reaching a height of 3000ft (950m) and vineyards located in the foothills and on valley floors. The climate is Mediterranean/Continental with long hot summers and very cold winters when the temperature falls as low as 23deg.F (-5deg.C). El Cierzo, a local dry wind which originates in the Ebro River valley to the west, plays a vital role in moderating temperatures during the growing season, as well as helping to prevent fungal diseases on the vines.

Edetària, a futuristic cellar built in 2003, is set in a stunning landscape of vineyards, olive groves and mountains in the valley of Gandesa, D O Terra Alta, just south-west of Priorat. It is the personal project of one of the leading lights in Terra Alta, Joan Àngel Lliberia, an agronomist by training and a true lover of the vineyard. His grandfather produced bulk wines, as did his father Angel, an oenologist, who sold his grapes to the local cooperative while he studied winemaking in France for ten years. Joan Angel's hard work has earned him a place among the top producers of Terra Alta, a name with a long winemaking tradition now trying to emulate the quality and commercial success of neighbouring Priorat and Montsant. Edetària are leading the way in these new wave wines by maximising varietal expression, minimalist winemaking, strict vineyard management and low yields. Improvisation and creativity, using experience and intuition, respect for nature and tradition, and the latest technologies in the winery and vineyard, are all key to Joan Angel and his team when developing their wines.

Their logo is the letter "t” which stands for "terra" in Catalan and means "land" and represents the "spirit of the land". Edetària is a Single Estate only producing wine from its own vineyards. It does this in order to control the production process from the very beginning because it firmly believes the vineyards are the most important part of the winemaking process. It owns 30 hectares in total of mainly native Garnatxa Blanca, Macabeo, Garnatxa Fina, Garnatxa Peluda and Cariñena but also some international varietals, a high percentage of these are over 50 years old and the rest are between 20 and 25 years old. They are among the best tended vineyards in the region, with minimum yields always below 4500 kg/hectare. Because the vineyards experience a Mediterranean climate, “there’s little sickness in the vineyards and therefore no need for chemicals”. The vineyards are cultivated on five different terroirs depending on the suitability for each grape variety which are - Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeo from Cendroses on "Panal terroir", fossilised sand dune; Viognier, Cab Sauv and Merlot from Vinya del Mas on "Tapas terroir", terraces composed basically of lime and clay subsoil; Garnatxa Fina and Cariñena from Serres on "Tapas blanc terroir", white terraces with carbonate content; Garnatxa Peluda from Plana Gran on "Codols terroir", an old riverbed with pebbles; Syrah from Vinya Bancal del Mas on "Vall terroir ", deep slime very fertile soils. The interaction between different grapes with each soil type and a particular microclimate produces wines of distinct and unique personality. Winemaker Joan Angel says "We try to keep the authenticity of the different blocks, with different plots in different bottles, ”Garnacha” is the focus. Edetaria Edetana is “in the forefront of that area in taking Garnacha to the next level…[some of] his Garnacha Negra has mutated into Garnacha Peluda, which means ‘velvety’[or 'downy']. The back of the leaf has changed and developed hairs on the back of the leaf, which retains better moisture…it lends acidity to wines, so most of the wines contain Garnacha Peluda.” “To obtain minerality and freshness in a Mediterranean climate, we must work the vineyard by hand,” says Joan Angel. “In the cellar we only work with big barrels to retain the aromas of the terroir. We use only natural yeasts to show the maximum authenticity”. The grapes are collected into small crates to cover the short distance to the cellar keeping the full freshness of the fruit. Fermentation tanks are small (1000 - 9000 litres), designed to keep the different terroirs and grape varieties separate during the winemaking process and fully express the qualities of all the individual plots. Ageing is carried out in 300 litre oak barrels in a cellar kept at a constant temperature and humidity.


- Wine making: 100% Garnatxa Blanca, from a combination of two harvests: the earlier harvest provides all the freshness of fruit and, two weeks later, the second harvest provides the Garnatxa Blanca structure. It has been aged for three months on its own natural lees applying the 'batonnage' technique, thereby obtaining delicacy and finesse.

- Tasting notes: "Creamy, fresh, fine and elegant fruit and floral aromas of peach, apricot, roses with citric mineral notes. Elegant, rich-textured, crisp acidity, stony yellow fruits - plum, greengage, peaches with hints of minerality and heather honey with a soft, persistent finish. Serve at 8-10 degC". burridgewine

Decanter World Wine Awards 2012 - Silver Medal
WFS Awards 2012 - selected in Top 100 New Wave SpanishWines

- Price: £12.00


- Wine making: 100% Garnatxa Fina from at least 25 year old vines from the 'Tapas blancas' terroir, aged 4-6 months in French oak. It combines two different wine-making processes, one with cold maceration to give all the freshness and authenticity of Garnatxa Fina's fruits, and a second one, more traditional, with riper grapes for obtaining complex structure.

- Tasting notes: "Intense fresh bouquet of cherry, plum, marzipan, red peppers, with hints of wild herbs, complex and structured on the palate, enriched with red fruits, elegant sweet soft tannins and lingering finish. Serve at 15-16 degC". burridgewine

- Price: £12.00


Grenache Noir, or Garnacha Tinta as its known in Spain is a grape variety that gives a wonderful voluptousity and concentration of strawberry fruit to all wines.

Grenache is the worlds most widely planted red variety but most of the vines are in one country (Spain) and its colonization of the rest of the world has been decidedly patchy. The only French classic wine in which it is included as part of the blend is Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the southern Rhône; elsewhere Grenache has always been most famous as a reckless provider of alcohol in a blend.

So long as you had some good hot weather and poor soils you could plant Grenache. Grenache can easily ripen to 16 per cent alcohol all by itself, which meants that blenders loved it, and fortified winemakers liked it.

In the early 1990s, the best winemakers turned up to the forgotten Spanish areas like Calatayud and Carinena and saw that there were vast plains full of super-ripe Garnacha that nobody seemed to want, but which they knew they could turn into juicy and full of alcohol wines close to the New World know-how.

At the other end of the price scale, one of the slumbering legends of Spanish wine (Alvaro Palacios) decided it was time to finish hibernating and start making a bit of a noise. Priorat, a dense, brooding red of enormous alcohol (as high as 18 per cent) made from tiny yields of primarily Garnacha grapes (as low as 5hl/ha) had been around for 800 years or so, but it took the rise of Catalan self-awareness and a bunch of ambitious young growers to revive its reputation during the 1990s.

No hay comentarios:

Publicar un comentario